LDN Indies | Kuki

LDN Indies: championing and highlighting fellow independent businesses in London.

Kuki.

For the second instalment of our LDN Indies series, we sat down with long-time TOWER collaborators Kuki. We first met at the Crepe City sneaker festival in March 2017 and have regularly worked together on content since. Below is our conversation with Nico and Eden, shot at various East London locations featuring TOWER footwear.

How do you guys know each other?

Nico: I've known Eden since we were in secondary school — since 11, but better friends at 14 or 15. We gravitated towards each other when we began taking art classes together. We were art geeks. We went our separate ways for uni at different cities, did our bits, then came back to London.

Eden: Yeah, that was where our bond began — through creativity. We loved going to galleries and museums.

How did Kuki start?

Nico: We were both working decent graduate jobs but felt a little bored doing repetitive design work, so we were like — let's get out, go to museums, be part of the arts culture a bit more. We went to a gallery and then on to a pop-up skate shop next door. We looked at the stuff and just couldn't see what they were trying to tell us. It didn't communicate well to us. Like, why should we spend our money with them? We put our heads together and thought we could do something. Maybe something better.

Eden: Yeah, we saw a gap to make a brand that would appeal to our demographic, but also have ethics, a meaning and a story. You know all these brands that someone is telling us we're supposed to be into — it's just got the hype around it, but in reality it's just someone slapping a logo on a Gildan t-shirt.

Is there a particular brand you're talking about?

Eden: No, it's not the brand you're thinking of. That brand I have respect for! It just hit home to us that people get a buzz from this genre of street style — but we wanted to do it in a way that meant something to us.

Nico: Yeah, we just brainstormed. We got down to the core parts — the identity, the name. It's the story.

Do you think growing up in London helped?

Nico: Being in London is the best and worst thing. We have the maddest, most extravagant city, the weirdest people. And loads of opportunity, with good infrastructure around us.

Eden: Yeah, I think London is definitely the type of city where you can really find yourself. You'll always find the thing you're into — whether it's anime or rock music. The Kuki person can be anyone.

You started with making clothes — where do you see that going?

Nico: The clothes for me aren't about fashion — it's showing an alliance to a culture. Fashion isn't at the forefront for us. It's a thought process.

Eden: We really went from being a streetwear brand to advertising ourselves as a creative design house. We do music videos, photo-shoots, graphics, logos, stickers.

Nico: We now have our own mobile game. We were bored and wanted to do something different, so we made our own game. You can get it now — it's available!

How does being best friends help or hinder the process?

Eden: We're like an old married couple. You learn to compromise and you learn to bring out the best in each other. We both have different skill sets that we need. I definitely needed a partner to do this — I couldn't have done it on my own.

Nico: I think in the beginning, as two best friends, you have to assert authority and divide up roles. What are you each best at?

Eden: Especially when you're both creative. Creativity is so subjective. I'm much flashier, whereas Nico is much more minimalistic. We do have to find the happy medium.

How many design changes does one big item go through until you're both happy?

Nico: That print came from Eden's laptop skin three years ago. Eden straight away went for red and black. That print has been fed into our work quite a lot.

Eden: The whole collection is about being suspended at school and based around Dennis the Menace. We used to love the Beano. We aim to bring a different story to every collection.

How do you think of the stories? They're quite niche themes.

Eden: So that was an Easter time drop and the colours fed into that pink/blue, boys/girls thing. All our clothes are unisex, so we wanted to make a collection where the guys' clothes were pink and the girls' were blue.

How does your Instagram following impact your decision making?

Nico: We do what we want. I feel old fashioned and really believe if we only had the old ways of working — TV, billboards — we could still make it. Now it's hazy. I do social media for a job, a business. You can't take it too seriously though; you can't let it control your life.

Eden: People ask what the Instagram pattern is — there is no pattern. Some stuff you think won't land will land, and some stuff you think will do really well just doesn't. You can't predict what people want.

When we first met, we discussed the influence Japanese culture has on Kuki. Does that still remain?

Nico: We were always just inspired by the culture from Japan — the lifestyle. Japan has the largest amount of people over 100 years old. That's mad. It's interesting to understand why. Our inspiration didn't even come from design that much.

Eden: Yeah, and definitely the discipline and family-oriented part of Japan. But as a creative you definitely can't ignore Japanese design and streetwear.

Do you feel that being two young creatives means you have more to prove?

Eden: I have something to prove to my dad. And my family. That's definitely the biggest weight on my shoulders — my family aren't creative. I come home with pink hair or blue hair and my mum literally thinks I'm crazy.

Nico: Yeah, 100%. I have a very similar setup. Our parents encourage us to be creative... as a hobby! We went from good jobs to working our arses off and sacrificing.

Eden: Yeah, you've definitely got to do this for the love.

What would your advice be to other independent companies?

Nico: Do it if you're crazy and if you've got the love for it.

Eden: Keep it as a hobby until you can understand how you can grow your business.

Do you have any thoughts on the shoes you've worn today?

Nico: I'm a back-to-basics guy with my footwear. Classic styles — Converse, DMs, Vans, Timbs. Old school stuff. I don't buy loud colours; I wear black and white. I need something hardwearing, that can be knocked about. Workwear stuff. Timberlands — they were made for walking through woods, right?

Eden: TIMBER. LANDS. Well done Nico!

Nico: Ha! But I've definitely taken a shine to these Dr. Martens Jadon boots.

Eden: Sneakers. I love sneakers. Fila has definitely grown on me as a brand — I rate them. I can see myself in a pair of Fila Disruptors.

What would you say is mental?

Eden: See-through Dr. Martens with flashing soles!

Nico: Give the people what they want!

Kuki are a London-based creative studio and streetwear label. Follow them on Instagram @kukistudio. The LDN Indies series continues — read our next instalment in the series for more from London's independent creative community.

Shop the Brands Kuki Wore at TOWER

Dr. Martens Jadon Smooth Mens Black Platform Boots View product

Fila Disruptor II Premium White Trainers View product

Timberland Mens Wheat Premium 6 Inch Nubuck Leather Boots View product

Palladium Pampa Hi Mono Chrome Black Boots View product

Vans Old Skool Womens Black / White Canvas Trainers View product

Shop all TOWER London at TOWER